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How To: Fit aftermarket Reverse Sensors
#1
Introduction:

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Here is my tutorial on installing a set of rear aftermarket parking sensors. You’ll want to start off by following my tutorial below to remove the black interior boot trim before you do anything else. Once this has been done then you can start with the installation and routing of the wires for the parking sensor.

This is my first MAJOR tutorial so please let me know if I have missed anything or if you want more help or photos. Also big thanks to everyone on here for pointing me in the right direction with this one and also thanks to You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login to view. and You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login to view. in particular Smile

Pre-Requisites:

You will need to extend the length of the RED/LIVE cable which comes with the kit as it won’t be long enough to feed it up the boot trim and to the reverse light wire which you’ll be splicing into. The black wire can be left as it is out of the box as it will only be traveling a few CMs to your earth point.

You’ll have already removed the black boot trim which you need to do to route the wire to the reverse light live feed. See my tutorial here:

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Buy some parking sensors! Ha. These are the ones I have but i have them WITHOUT the screen, just the speaker:

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Steps:

1. Begin by removing the rubber boot from where it’s clipped onto the boot lid and the boot frame as you’ll need to do this in order to pull the wire through it. The rubber boot is this one:

[Image: 17318887796_86a141b9d0_z.jpg]

It’s only attached to the car on both sides by 4 clips around the base of both sides of the boot, it comes off easily with a trim removal tool and a bit of prising Smile.

2. Now you will want to route the connector end of the parking sensors power cable through the metal frame of the bumper lid, a hole which you can thread the wire through is circles below:

You can see my wire already poking out of this hole. 
[Image: 4DQGuR4.jpg]

Keep pushing it down until it pokes out of the hole which is now visible in the boot lid where the top side of the rubber boot was attached to the car.

3. Now comes the tricky part, you’ll want to feed the cable through the top end of the rubber boot and out of the bottom side of the rubber boot so it looks like this:

[Image: 17334324791_33eeb05c5a_z.jpg]

You can get tools for threading wires through tight spaces like this but I simply squeezed the boot together from both sides like an accordion which then made the distance I had to thread the wire less than if it was left extended like it is naturally. You’ll just want to be patient here and keep pushing it and try it pull from the other side of the boot.

4. Next you’ll need to feed the wire through the hole in the frame where the bottom of the boot was connected and just keep pushing it down as much as you can. Once you have fed a good amount of the wire into this hole then you’ll need to put your arm into the left hand side cubby hole (where the fuse box goes) and reach up and try to grab the end of the wire and pull it through to where you’d like to have the connecter box for the parking sensors. Like so:

[Image: 17334730465_e45534074c_z.jpg]

You can even see where I attached the connector box in this above photo too.

5. Next you’ll want to re-attach the boot trim but you’ll need to ensure you feed the other end of the cable through the hole where you access the reverse lights as you’ll be splicing this into the reverse light cable next. Image can be found below to show what I mean:

[Image: 17308737926_214385c407_z.jpg]

6. Remove the foam from around these wires which will allow you to find the GREEN/LIVE reverse wire:

The below photos was taken inside the hole where the reverse lights wiring is accessed. It’s covered by a small piece of plastic in the boot lid which is easily removed

[Image: 17147915769_30794d4d44_z.jpg]

7. Proceed to splice the red/live wire that you’ve just been routing through the trim into the GREEN/LIVE wire which is the one for the reverse light:

It should then look something like this:

[Image: 17156408860_3e24785a9f_z.jpg]

8. Next you’ll need to splice/connect a ground circle loop connector to the black end of the wire which is currently residing in the cubby hold and is the one which is part of the power connector cable that you routed through the trim:

Then you’ll need to route the ground wire (black one from the power cable) to the bolt which is also in the cubby hole:

[Image: 17343628301_5f2f5f76b2_z.jpg]

You may already have another wire on here if you have a fuse box back there (I don’t) but it can be fastened on all the same Smile.

Now the wiring for the power and ground is done! I then plugged each of the sensors (and the power connector) into the parking sensor console and then stuck the car into reverse and had someone wave there hand over each of the sensors one by one to test they were working. Better to find out now that ones broke than later!

9. Now that’s all done you will need to follow this tutorial to remove the bumper of the car:

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10. Once that off you will need to locate the circles on the inside of the bumper which you’ll be using as guides for your drilling of the holes. Now there are 6 circles in total but you just want the ones I have circled below and not the ones I have CROSSED:

[Image: 17342573112_caba7fb149_z.jpg][/url]

I know the photo is poor and those marks aren’t EXACTLY where I have circled and crossed them but basically there are 4 (circled) which are roughly in a straight line, these are the ones you DO want to use. The there is one more on each side (crossed) which are below the others and there are the ones you DON’T want to use.

11. Once you’ve found the 4 pre-defined marks, you’ll want to mark a little dot in the middle of each of the 4 circles. You’ll then want to use a pretty small drill bit to drill through this hole from the INSIDE to the OUTSIDE. This will serve as your reference hole.

[Image: 16723728133_4d166f70b9_z.jpg]

12. Now turn the bumper over and stick a small piece of masking tape over each of the 4 holes you’ve made like so:

[Image: 17342082362_9126cb11fc_z.jpg]

Now place the centre of the big circle drill bit that came in your pack inside the small hole on the OUTSIDE of the bumper and proceed to drill through to the INSIDE of the bumper to create your 4 holes an then you’ll have something like this:

[Image: 17342085952_0c4a908cae_z.jpg]

Now just remove the tape and you’ll have 4 perfect circles Smile you may need to just remove some of the excess plastic that’s left around the edges but that’s it.

13. Now you’ll want to prepare the interior of the boot of the car ready for when you feed the wires through from the bumper. The bit i’m referring too is the bit which is on the front side of the boot when you open it, it’s the big black panel which forms part of the inside of the boot. I’ll try and get some photos of this later but it simply pulls away from the car itself and is only held in place with a few clips Smile.

14. Locate the big rubber grommet which can be seen in the following photo, it’s where the bumper was on the metal frame of the car:

[Image: 17342084052_b2c4b41cb1_z.jpg]

[Image: 16723721323_dc7ce8cb53_z.jpg]

I cut a small hole in this grommet which i then used to feed all of the wires from the sensors into in the next step.

15. Next you’ll want to bring the bumper over to the car and feed each one of the sensors through holes you’ve made and then push the wires through the grommet hole as mentioned above. Once they are through, you can simply reach into where you removed that plastic trim inside the boot compartment and then pull them through.

[Image: 17317991836_9ac637a292_z.jpg]

You can now also work the bumper back onto the car while pulling those wires tight into the boot compartment, you don’t want them dangling loosely.

16. Now feed them up the left hand side of the furry black trim and then pull them into the cubby hole. You can then begin to plug each of the sensors into the control until. Don’t forget that the sensor on the left side of the bumper will need to go into the control unit marked “A” and then the next one along will go into the “B” hole etc.

[Image: 17156165288_a4f3b2d6b7_z.jpg]

17. You can now put the black interior boot trim back into place and jobs a good one! Smile You will just want to experiment with where you have the speaker, I stuck my arm up inside the left hand side cubby hole where I fed the red live wire down and stuck it up inside there to the metal frame of the car.

Picture of where that would be from the inside is as follows:

[Image: 17165926199_73eae6f2c9_z.jpg]

If you could see through that white trim under the rear glass quarter then you'd see that's where I have the speaker. Seems to be pretty loud there as you can hear it echoing around the car :P

Finished Job:

[Image: HnHFJuf.jpg]

AS WITH ALL MECHANICAL HOW TOO,S. 

you do this at your own risk if you follow the how to correctly 
there should be no problems thank you.
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Astra Energy 63 Plate 1.7 CDTI (150BHP)

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#2
Very good write up mate Doublethumbs
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#3
Thanks mate! Big grin just hoping I didn't miss anything off!
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#4
Looks great mate, where does the beeping come from, the box? Is it loud enough when driving??

Excellent work mate! How to is great!
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#5
Thanks dude! Sorry, missed that bit out. It's an extra wire from the control box which has a speaker on the end of it. You can place it wherever you want Smile. I have it in the cubby hole and can hear it fine. Apparently the noise comes from the "screen" if you go for the model which has the screen (the one in the ebay link in this tutorial comes with it).

Glad you like it anyway! Big grin

Btw, this is the first time I've undertaken any work on this scale on ANY car and first time I've ever removed a body panel. It took about 4 hours total (including the bit in the other tutorial and removing the bumper). So if I can do it, anyone can Wink ha
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#6
Well seems you did an excellent job mate, I definitely fancy having ago when I get some sensors. Just wish I had someone nearby in case I need the help haha!
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#7
Excellent write up. Can I make one suggestion, which I found easier to do when moving the rear fogs to the bumper, behind the trim on the right hand side of the boot there should be a plug that feeds upto the tailgate it might be easier taking the feed from here. I'll try and get a pic tomorrow
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#8
(2:nd-May-2015, 19:24:18)Tonto Wrote: You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login to view.Well seems you did an excellent job mate, I definitely fancy having ago when I get some sensors. Just wish I had someone nearby in case I need the help haha!

You should be fine! Where is it you live btw? Wouldn't mind helping Smile

(2:nd-May-2015, 20:51:54)cornishtaz Wrote: You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login to view.Excellent write up. Can I make one suggestion, which I found easier to do when moving the rear fogs to the bumper, behind the trim on the right hand side of the boot there should be a plug that feeds upto the tailgate it might be easier taking the feed from here. I'll try and get a pic tomorrow

Hmmmm not sure which this is yanno but as long as it's the same live wire that belongs to the reverse light then it would do the same job wouldn't it! So sure, if you can post that in here with some pictures then I will refer to it as an option in the main post Smile
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#9
top work mate well done
and glad we have a how to now also cheers
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#10
Cheers mate! Glad I could contribute a bit more too Smile also have added a final picture to sort of explain where I placed the speaker
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#11
(2:nd-May-2015, 22:39:40)sheppy1 Wrote: You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login to view.
(2:nd-May-2015, 19:24:18)Tonto Wrote: You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login to view.Well seems you did an excellent job mate, I definitely fancy having ago when I get some sensors. Just wish I had someone nearby in case I need the help haha!

You should be fine! Where is it you live btw? Wouldn't mind helping Smile

I live in Newcastle mate Smile
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#12
I've changed the title of this thread and I shall move it out the retrofit area later as a retrofit is fitting factory fitted items.
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#13
(3:rd-May-2015, 10:58:36)Tonto Wrote: You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login to view.
(2:nd-May-2015, 22:39:40)sheppy1 Wrote: You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login to view.
(2:nd-May-2015, 19:24:18)Tonto Wrote: You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login to view.Well seems you did an excellent job mate, I definitely fancy having ago when I get some sensors. Just wish I had someone nearby in case I need the help haha!

You should be fine! Where is it you live btw? Wouldn't mind helping Smile

I live in Newcastle mate Smile

Awwww no :( nowhere near me so wouldn't be able to come help you. You'll be fine anyway Smile can ask me or anyone on here for help
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#14
If I do decide to have a go myself I will definitely follow your how to, only thing I am worries about is splicing wires etc as I have not got a clue how to do that ha.
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#15
Okay well just have a good read over it all a few times and ask me any questions beforehand and I'll explain anything you don't understand.

The splicing is VERY easy tbh, you literally find a piece of the green wire and trim a little bit of the coating off all the way around to expose a 1cm or so section of the wire. I then stick a knife between the copper wired that are exposed which then gives you a sort of needle eye hole through them, then you get the end of your other wire (the one from the power cable of the sensors) and feed it through the hole like you're threading a needle. Then just twist the wire to make it nice and secure. You then just need to stick some insulation tape around it to protect it and seal the exposed wires.

I don't and never have bothered with solder and it's always been fine Smile. Will try and do a how to during the week if that will help?
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#16
Ah so it is that easy, wow ok I think I could even do that haha, do I need to unplug battery or anything or just go for it?
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#17
Here ya go mate, quick how to:

Trim the coating from the wire in question (green reverse wire for this tutorial):

[Image: 17326556346_ce9bb5d2a2_z.jpg]

Make a hole between the wires:

[Image: 17352520805_b5bdf20305_z.jpg]

Feed the end of the power wire through this live wire (or the wire you're splicing into for any other work you're doing):

[Image: 17352164231_5bb4ced462_z.jpg]

Twist the wires together to make them secure:

[Image: 17164969570_02d2b388e9_z.jpg]

Wrap with tape:

[Image: 17166313459_a73eafcf51_z.jpg]

And nope! Don't need to unplug the battery Smile
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#18
Perfect mate thank you, I don't know why but I pictured it being harder than that, thanks again mate Smile
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#19
You're welcome Smile lemme know if you need any more help
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#20
I'm just looking at best sensors to get and best colour match, messaged a couple of sellers so waiting on reply, probs be Tuesday lol. So hopefully be ordering some soon Smile
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#21
Awesome! Finding the right colour was the hardest part for me as I have a funny coloured car Haha. Anything reason you're not going for the ones I linked too? He has the speaker only version too for a few quid less
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#22
my ones dont match to well in color but i intend to paint them soon the correct color
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#23
(3:rd-May-2015, 12:25:48)sheppy1 Wrote: You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login to view.Awesome! Finding the right colour was the hardest part for me as I have a funny coloured car Haha. Anything reason you're not going for the ones I linked too? He has the speaker only version too for a few quid less

I'm not sure whether to get visual indicator as well or just speaker... The ones you linked I am looking at mate Tongue
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#24
Hmmmm well remember you'll have to route the visual screen thing from the boot through the trim or headliner of the car all the way to the front of the car...Probably not that hard but if you've just spent 4 hours doing the other bit you may not want to messing around doing that :P
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#25
Haha yeah I guess, will have a think and wait for replies,
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#26
completely up to you i like it as i can see how far away i am as my road is a tight parking space
but the display is not really needed as the sound tone is fine really
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#27
Ok thanks You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login to view. will just go with the sound and follow You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login to view. how to Smile saves me paying someone to do it Tongue
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#28
Nice going mate


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
[Image: Lewis_zpswvvuzf0s.jpg]
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#29
I ended up ordering these ones You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login to view.
[Image: Tonto_zps9kmln9qb.jpg]
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#30
Look good dude! Find a colour to match your car then I take it?
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#31
Yeah the white should be a near perfect match but if not I'll see and may end up re painting if too noticeable Smile
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#32
Yeah easy enough to do anyway Smile well lemme know how you get or if you need any help!
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#33
Sure will mate Smile
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#34
Umm where do I put my box..? Also can't see a bolt for earth. You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login to view.
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#35
there is another bolt here at the bottom

[Image: rev%20002_zps8h6xorzf.jpg]

i have my box to the right of the fuse box

[Image: rev%20003_zpszwubuhin.jpg]
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#36
Ah that's perfect thanks mate! I'm going to give this a go tomorrow morning if weather permits. Need to pop out and get some wire, I connector thing for earth and some tape! I think that's all I'll need..
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#37
hey mate Smile

Check the first page of this thread I made...@tucpal posted some photos showing where he put the box (he has the same one as us)
and where the earth stud is.

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The stud is sort of back a bit towards where you'd reach to get to the rear lights if you were removing them....you may not have the nut though, i had to go and get one from my local shop
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#38
sounds correct mate
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#39
he beat me too it lol

did you get them fit then @tonto??? Big grin
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#40
Not yet mate going to try tomorrow when I have everything, I'm just checking if I need anything else before I start ?? Extra wire, tape, connector thing, anything else?

Also is the connector I need a 10mm terminal ring ??
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#41
yes mate it is for a 10mm bolt and nut
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#42
Thanks mate, pick stuff up at 10.30 hopefully started by 11 and finish about 1.30-2 is what I'm hoping lol! Going out with friends bowling at 2.30-3 ish Tongue

Or am I being unrealistic time wise hehe
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#43
very possible
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#44
Just the bolt and the nut mate Smile and yeah you may need more time than that, took me about an hour for the boot lid wiring as it's a bit tricky to feed through the boot rubber thing and then about 3 hours to do the rest as it took me over an hour to get the bumper off! Ha
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#45
Ok thanks guys, if weathers ok ill let you know how I get on!!
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#46
Another question sorry.

When extending the red/live wire before routing it to the reverse light what did you do? Just splice an extra metre on or ..?
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#47
Yeah just spliced some extra onto it Smile not sure how much but you can just cut off any extra wire at the end anyway
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#48
Ok mate thanks, will add a metre, that should be enough right ?
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#49
Yeah I defo didn't add more than a metre so that will be fine

Remember don't leave the bumper sat there waiting for the wind to blow it away when you get it off haha
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#50
Haha I won't mate, I'll take it indoors to drill it Tongue
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