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How To Fit Sub To CD400 Head Unit
#1
Today I made it my mission to fit my Fli 12" subwoofer into my Astra.

Tools you will need:

Speaker to RCA converter: £6.99 from eBay. I suggest this one as it fits snug behind the CD unit: You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login to view. (see photo below)
Screwdriver set (a few sized flat and phillips)
Electrical Tape
Patience & Time.

First of all you're going to want to remove the stereo system. If you're unfamiliar with how to do this, there is a How-to by Rusty2009 You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login to view. that shows you how to do this. Now you need to focus on the big wiring loom/plug that you pulled out of the CD unit and the speaker to RCA converter. Strip the ends of the converter speaker wires and double over to make them a bit thicker. Now look at the back of the wiring loom and it should look like this:

[Image: 1.jpg]

Use this diagram to help connect your speaker to RCA adapter to the correct terminals:

(This is a view from the front and remember, you're working from the back of the loom/plug)
[Image: 2.jpg]

To connect the terminals, just push them into where the current wire is sitting but make sure it gets a grip and doesn't pull out too easy. Once you've pushed all four speaker cables in firmly it should look a bit like this:

[Image: 3.jpg]

Now make sure you re-wrap the group of wires up with the rest of the wires to save them from coming loose and/or falling out.

The reason I recommended the converter I have done is because it sits perfectly behind the CD unit:

[Image: 4.jpg]

I then attached the remote on/off (antenna) cable to the spare terminal in the cigarette lighter the same way as I did with the CD loom/plug.

It's now up to you how you run the cables through to the back of your car. I ran mine underneath the door trim through into the boot.

Another issue that may arise is getting the power cable from the engine bay into the passenger foot well. I used the biggest phillips screwdriver I had and from the the passenger foot well, pushed the screwdriver through the grommet (be careful not to catch any cables). Once I could see the screwdriver from the engine bay side, I taped the power cable to the screwdriver and pulled it back through. This may take a few attempts (electric tape doesn't work).

Once you have the power cable linked up to the battery and inside the car just transport it to the boot as neatly as you can.

For the earth cable, there's an earth point in the right hand light panel in the boot. All I needed was a 10mm washer and nut and the sub was earthed.

Link all the sub cables up to the sub, cross your fingers and crank the stereo up!

If you need anymore pointers, give me a shout in this thread.
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#2
good guide fella Smile If I didn't need to put a double and single buggy in my boot I would have a sup :P
[Image: Lewis_zpswvvuzf0s.jpg]
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#3
excellent how to there Doublethumbs

and very well done i am looking at doing this in the summer so this will be a big help
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#4
Nice one mate thanks for taking the time to do it.
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#5
Looks pukka!


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#6
I have been looking at doing this for a while waiting for a guide like this so thanks!!

Bought a cheap sub so I will be installing this over the next couple of days. Would you say standard speaker wire will be ok? You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login to view. think that's the stuff I have.

I will also be amplifying the standard speakers when I get hold of a cheap decent 4 channel amp.
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#7
pope30 Wrote:I have been looking at doing this for a while waiting for a guide like this so thanks!!

Bought a cheap sub so I will be installing this over the next couple of days. Would you say standard speaker wire will be ok? You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login to view. think that's the stuff I have.

I will also be amplifying the standard speakers when I get hold of a cheap decent 4 channel amp.

I didn't need any speaker wire for the setup I done.
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#8
TUFFKNUX Wrote:I didn't need any speaker wire for the setup I done.

Good point, my subwoofer amp can take speaker wire directly but I have decided to use the convertor and rca cables instead. Nearly all set up but I cant get through the grommet its impossible!!
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#9
pope30 Wrote:Good point, my subwoofer amp can take speaker wire directly but I have decided to use the convertor and rca cables instead. Nearly all set up but I cant get through the grommet its impossible!!

That bit had me swearing. I used a hefty cross headed screwdriver and from the passenger footwear pushed it through and then out the side of the grommet in the engine bay. Be brave and push but watch those wires!
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#10
what amp are you using i could do with a few suggestions mid range price wise
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#11
tucpal Wrote:what amp are you using i could do with a few suggestions mid range price wise

I didn't want to spend too much money so I have got this You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login to view. with the intention of upgrading if I like the addition of a sub.

Its actually got really good reviews on both Amazon and Halfords, its a shame that its orange but a can of paint will sort that out. Went for the 10" rather than the 12" because the box was much bigger for the 12".

The sub that I really wanted is this You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login to view. but its too much as a tester.

When I amplify the standard speakers I will be using this You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login to view. as this will allow me to avoid cutting the wires to the standard head unit. I will use an alpine amp You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login to view. depending on budget. To power the speakers something like this. [ATTACH=CONFIG]366[/ATTACH]


Attached Files Thumbnail(s)
   
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#12
I had Edge speakers in my old Frontera and they sounded spot on.
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#13
There is a plug and play option out there for this but it is a bit pricey
at around the £100 mark from Germany.

[Image: plug-and-play-kabelbaum-endstufe-cd300-c...jbilfw.jpg]

They have CD400 and NAV500,600,800 options
and as you can see they come with the speaker wires and just plug and play
and is a better option then splicing the wires into the old connector.
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#14
tucpal Wrote:There is a plug and play option out there for this but it is a bit pricey
at around the £100 mark from Germany.

[Image: plug-and-play-kabelbaum-endstufe-cd300-c...jbilfw.jpg]

They have CD400 and NAV500,600,800 options
and as you can see they come with the speaker wires and just plug and play.

Have you got a link?
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#15
Rusty deals with them.
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#16
Great how to! So you connected both L and R channels to your sub? Installing an amplifier should be your next how to Looney
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#17
Here are some pics running power cable to the trunk

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#18
Thanks for that DNT.
[Image: Rusty-2_zpsuzrvgsp6.GIF]
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Retrofitted AFL, TPMS, Navi950, BT, DAB, Rear Camera, Infinity sound system, Towbar, Flexfloor & more.
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#19
very good i have not seen that way done before and it looks a much better way of doing it Thumbs
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#20
At the risk of sounding simple, what's the benefit of installing a sub? I've never fiddled with AV in cars as I've always liked the idea of having a boot.

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#21
just adds alot more bass but it also takes up alot of room
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#22
Another video showing how to install an amp. Chevy cruze's engine bay and wiring is similar to astra



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#23
top find there and very useful info in that cheers
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#24
Hi TUFFKNUX

Could you let us know how much this has improved the sound overall? I am very tempted by this.

Thanks

(3:rd-May-2015, 17:36:10)DC_ELiTE Wrote: You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login to view.Hi TUFFKNUX

Could you let us know how much this has improved the sound overall? I am very tempted by this.

Thanks

Also how did you sort the power so that it auto turns off or did you not? Worried about draining the battery!
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#25
Right well, I have taken the plunge and bought a subwoofer, the high to low level converter, and various leads I need.

Spoke to insurance to check out they were happy and whether I had to get anything special for them in terms of certificates, nothing needed which is great news Smile

I'm confident with the RCA cables, sub install and cable routing.

Just would really appreciate a pic of how you attached to the battery You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login to view.! 

Also has anyone got information on where the front speakers are in the loom? Would like to hook those up if I can as my bluetooth kit only streams to the front speakers.  In the pics TUFFKNUX provided it looks as if he has them wired slightly differently to the picture so any guidance would be appreciated Confused
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#26
Can anyone advise? Maybe Rusty

Trying to understand which one I should put the remote wire into?

[Image: 9pbCYTS.jpg]

Cheers
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#27
Purple mate.
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Retrofitted AFL, TPMS, Navi950, BT, DAB, Rear Camera, Infinity sound system, Towbar, Flexfloor & more.
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#28
Thanks mate Smile

In the end I decided to extend the cable to the glove box and add it onto my piggyback given its only looking for a signal.

Wired everything in now except the power, attempting that tomorrow or in next few days, want to make sure I fully understand what I have to do before I poke holes in things.
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#29
The fuse board is live all the time so I would personally run it off the 12v socket mate as that's controlled via ignition.

Re hook up to the battery run through firewall and hook up to positive term on battery the fuse must be as close as possible to the battery.

I'll grab you a pic later.
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#30
Thanks Rusty, have to be honest I am a little nervous about the battery bit so maybe you could answer these questions for me? Sorry I am a car novice so if these seem dumb I do apologise!

1) On the battery there is a small bolt which holds the terminal in place, the power cable I have for the sub has a ring connector on it already so I want to just undo this bolt and place it under there. This way I don't actually have to remove the terminal on the battery completely. I just wanted to check this part would actually be energized so will power the sub?

2) When removing this bolt is there a special tool I should use? I.e not conductive or would a simply socket set/spanner suffice?

3) If for some reason when I loosen this bolt the power to the car is lost, am I in danger of anything resetting to the point where it wont work, for example the audio system needing to be coded again? The only reason I ask is I bought this car from a dealer (eden in poole funnily enough) and have recently noticed I do not have the security code information in my manual....I have emailed them already on this.

4) Regarding the fuse for the sub, having had a look in the engine bay I can see there is sound insulation on the back of the bay, would I be ok to secure the fuse onto that? If so would you recommend anything to do this?

5) If I decided in the end it might be better for someone else to do this part, what would you expect to be charged to do this?

Think that's the only questions I have for now!

RE using the piggyback, I am piggybacked onto the fuse which controls the cig lighter already, which is ignition switched as my dashcam and phone do not charge until the key is switched on.
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#31
1. yes mate You must remove the negative first though. I did have to buy a new bolt and nut, which is You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login to view..

Here are some pic's, 

[Image: 1.jpg]

[Image: 2.jpg]

I had to cut abit of the cover away to get it clip back down.

[Image: 3.jpg]

2. Just use a 10mm spanner / socket but again always remove the negative 1st and make sure it won't come back into contact with the battery.

3. Power will be lost but IIRC the radio won't need the code, (Having an aftermarket unit I can't be 100% sure one of the other lads can say for sure).

4.You can see from my pictures above it's as close to battery as I can get it this is for safety reason the closer it is allows the it to blow quicker if there is a problem this lessening the risk of fire etc.

5. It depends mate if you have ran all cable etc and everything is ready too hook a auto spark might only charge a few beers.

Eden on Poole Road Branksome? I got mine there, ring them and say you have no radio code etc and you got the car from them and they should sort it out at no cost if not you want to speak to Robin Fielder the Manager.

If you live in Poole I'm in Bournemouth so will be happy to help you out mate.
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Retrofitted AFL, TPMS, Navi950, BT, DAB, Rear Camera, Infinity sound system, Towbar, Flexfloor & more.
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#32
Thanks Rusty that's very helpful, and answers my questions. Looks like you bought the same audio connection kit as I did from halfords so that's even better.

I actually moved from Bournemouth about 6 months ago when I bought the car from Poole road, having lived there for 8 years. Only come down on weekends every now and again now, miss it a lot!

Thanks Re Eden, that's in progress so hopefully will be sorted soon. Don't think I will have chance to do this for another week or so now because of the way my shifts work, but will post back once complete!

P.S any tips for getting through that grommit in the engine bay?
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#33
Just be careful of the other wires a kitting needle is good to make a hole and if you have a wire puller you can feed that from inside out into the engine bay and then route it (under the header tank) and through that way get the wife or a mate to feed it while you pull it through.

You can then pop the side covers off and run through the wiring channels into the boot.

Bournemouth isn't bad I'm just off Holdenhurst Road, well if ever need help with anything when you come down this way just shout mate.
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Retrofitted AFL, TPMS, Navi950, BT, DAB, Rear Camera, Infinity sound system, Towbar, Flexfloor & more.
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#34
Hi guys would anyone be able to put up a how to on how to wire the amp to the head unit not 100% sure on the leads and wire routings.
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#35
(20:th-May-2015, 13:41:32)Hashtagkegs Wrote: You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login to view.Hi guys would anyone be able to put up a how to on how to wire the amp to the head unit not 100% sure on the leads and wire routings.

it's in the first post mate for the speaker wires into the box then RCA cables come out and run to the AMP.

The RCA cables I ran mine under the centre console and then under the back seat into the boot.

The power runs from the battery through the firewall and along the passenger side kick panel then up into the boot.
The wake up you can come off the back of the 12v socket and run it along with the power cable.

Ground stays in boot area.

I then ran all new speaker wire from amp to doors.
[Image: Rusty-2_zpsuzrvgsp6.GIF]
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#36
(21:st-May-2015, 11:35:11)Rusty2009 Wrote: You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login to view.
(20:th-May-2015, 13:41:32)Hashtagkegs Wrote: You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login to view.Hi guys would anyone be able to put up a how to on how to wire the amp to the head unit not 100% sure on the leads and wire routings.

it's in the first post mate for the speaker wires into the box then RCA cables come out and run to the AMP.

The RCA cables I ran mine under the centre console and then under the back seat into the boot.

The power runs from the battery through the firewall and along the passenger side kick panel then up into the boot.
The wake up you can come off the back of the 12v socket and run it along with the power cable.

Ground stays in boot area.

I then ran all new speaker wire from amp to doors.
Would you be so kind to provide the link struggling finding the post
Thanks!!
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#37
It's the very first post in this thread go to top of the page mate.
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#38
(24:th-May-2015, 09:08:48)Rusty2009 Wrote: You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login to view.It's the very first post in this thread go to top of the page mate.

Got it thanks mate!
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#39
This amp (Helix DSP pp50) claims to be plug n play. Not sure if its worth though



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#40
expensive set up but yes i have come across this set up before
it looks straight forward and easy to fit
but i would be keeping the sub above the spare wheel
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#41
@Rusty2009

Hey Rusty

FINALLY got around to wiring this in today but have come a little stuck.

Have pushed the power cable through the hole, great tip on the knitting needle that was perfect for the job!

I proceeded to remove the negative as you said, no problem.

Got the positive and I can't actually undo the bolt past a certain point, it just kind of stops turning. Its enough to get the hoop off of the terminal but it means I can't install the hoop from the power lead to the sub.

Is it just a case of brute force?
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#42
(11:th-Jun-2015, 12:40:01)DC_ELiTE Wrote: You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login to view.@Rusty2009

Hey Rusty

FINALLY got around to wiring this in today but have come a little stuck.

Have pushed the power cable through the hole, great tip on the knitting needle that was perfect for the job!

I proceeded to remove the negative as you said, no problem.

Got the positive and I can't actually undo the bolt past a certain point, it just kind of stops turning. Its enough to get the hoop off of the terminal but it means I can't install the hoop from the power lead to the sub.

Is it just a case of brute force?

Mine was the same mate, I got it off and on once with force just kept going back and forth but when I needed it off again it wouldn't come off just had to cut the bolt in half I went to Halfords and got this for £1.80 You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login to view. and just replaced the whole nut and bolt.
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Retrofitted AFL, TPMS, Navi950, BT, DAB, Rear Camera, Infinity sound system, Towbar, Flexfloor & more.
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#43
Right all done!  Hyper Hyper Hyper Hyper Hyper

I will not lie, a small moment of panic happened when I tried to reuse the bolt and it just kept turning in the socket. Got it off in the end and popped the new bolt as you suggested so thanks for the tip.

For anyone thinking of doing this to the CD400, go do it, worth every penny for that premium sound. It really has enhanced the sound so much in the car.

Thanks once again Rusty for all your help and guidance, helps a Newbie  like me tackle issues with confidence. 
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#44
I've ordered this to fit one to my CD500 Navi. Fingers crossed I don't mess it up!
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#45
(11:th-Jun-2015, 15:46:36)Jj0063 Wrote: You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login to view.I've ordered this to fit one to my CD500 Navi. Fingers crossed I don't mess it up!

Just take your time mate and you will be fine

What Sub did you go for?

I end up with a bargain on ebay, paid £44 for an D12 Subwoofer with V Power MRP-T220 250w Amp Box, don't judge how messy my boot is, its being cleaned tomorrow

[Image: MP3OSdm.jpg]
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#46
Glad you got there in the end mate.
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#47
I've got a vibe active 1200w. Nothung special but it's in the loft so may as well get it down. I've also got a vibe 'Fast plug' which I'd recommend as they're handy if you need boot space occasionally
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#48
(11:th-Jun-2015, 15:46:36)Jj0063 Wrote: You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login to view.I've ordered this to fit one to my CD500 Navi. Fingers crossed I don't mess it up!

keep me updated on that lol 
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#49
(11:th-Jun-2015, 18:09:51)Jj0063 Wrote: You are not allowed to view links. Register or Login to view.I've got a vibe active 1200w. Nothung special but it's in the loft so may as well get it down. I've also got a vibe 'Fast plug' which I'd recommend as they're handy if you need boot space occasionally

Yeap couldn't agree more on the fast plug, very useful for removing the sub when you need the boot space. Was surprised to find that in halfords for the same costs as everywhere else online.
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#50
I'm just going to buy a small 500w under seat Aqua sub as IMO the car is not a mobile disco machine.
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